The great penance of Yamuna shaped Jaunpur-Jaunsaar with her
sweat giving the region a meaning. The awe inspiring beauty of the land
compelled Kauravas and the Pandavas to make it a sojourn and eventually the
seed of a unique lineage was sown. The ball game of Gendwa still beckons the
memories of chopping off a head in the ancient times. And the tales are still
narrated at nights by wrinkled faced elders gurgling hukka beside the cozy fire
of the chulha inside the pine fragrant and homemade wine scented wooden houses.
The mystic Jaunpur-Jaunsaar with its allies Rawaeen and Bhaabur collectively
form a hidden buffer zone between the trio district of Tehri Garhwal, Dehradun
and Uttarkashi with Sirmour district of Himachal Pradesh as the northern
frontier. The Queen of the Hills Musoorie, Vikasnagar and Hatkoti in Himachal
Pradesh are the three entry points to the region the scenic beauty and rich
culture of which is certainly exclusive in the entire mountains. Primarily a
tribal habitation, the region is home to the Brahmins, Rajputs and the
collective clans of craftsmen, artisans and musicians all living together in
remote areas of either side of Yamuna river which coins the name
Jaunpur-Jaunsaar. The other river divide is that of the Tons river in Rawaeen
which is one of the wildest rivers in Asia and is a major tributary of Yamuna uniting
at Kalsi. It is Yamuna who cushions the turbulent Tons in her tolerant domain
as she is the outcome of age's old patience.
THE ESSENCE OF ORIGIN
According to the local legends, Surya Dev married Sangya who couldn't stand the
heat of the Sun god during intimacy and hence created her clone Chhaaya for the
purpose without the consent of her consort. In course of time Chhaaya gave
birth to Yama, the god of death, and Yamuna. Once while playing, Yama
accidentally kicked Sangya who got annoyed to the extent that she cursed Yama
of a rotten leg. Yamuna, who loved her brother dearly, went to the harshest
region (the present Yamunotri site) to undergo age's long penance which
ultimately got Yama out of the curse. Yama blessed his sister with the boon to continue
flourishing lives and that a dip in her water would save from akaalmrityu or
untimely death. Bhaiyya Dooj is celebrated hence. Jaunpur and Jaunsaar are two
fertile zones on either side of Yamuna and the elders assert that
Jaunpur-Jaunsaar literally means Jamuna Paar and Jamuna Saar respectively. Life
begins and ends in Yamuna for the people of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar as for them it is
not just a river, it is a heavenly bliss.
THE HISSSSTORY OF THE BELIEF
The serpent god is the prime deity of the region who is worshipped as both
Naagraaj and as Bhadraaj or Balram, the elder brother of Lord Krishna. On of
the major temples of Naagraaj is located at Kyaarkuli village on the
Dehradun-Mussoorie highway and that of Bhadraaj Devta is situated on a mountain
top near Mussoorie. The other ancient temples of Naagraaj are located at Naag
Tibba, Naagthaat, Devalsari and the one at Untar village is one fine piece of
architecture. However, the customs and rituals clearly indicates the influence
of the Pandavas in the region and practices like polyandry is still in vogue in
the remote areas. The ASI protected Shiva temple at Lakhamandal in Jaunsaar is
believed to have been built by the Pandavas and the area is often linked by
some with the Laakshagriha conspiracy. Hundreds and hundreds of stone
Shivalinga are still being unearthed from around the temple and village which
supports the Puranic belief that the Pandavas built one Lakh Shivalinga to get
out of the curse of Guru Hatya during the great war of Mahabharata. Later, the
five brothers with their consort Draupadi moved towards the Swargarohini peak
which dominates the Harkidun meadow in Rawaeen. On the other hand, the Harkidun
valley is believed to be the domain of Duryodhana and Karna who spent a
considerable span of time around the valley. The Someshwar temples at Mori,
Netwaar, Saur, Osla, Dhaatmeer, Jakhol and the villages apart the Karmanaasha
and Supin rivers were built by Duryodhana and Karna as indicates the temple
plaques. Some elders believe that it is Duryodhana and Karna who were
worshipped as gods.
The other prime deity of this divine land is Mahaasu Devta, a manifestation of
Lord Shiva, who is one furious god of justice. Mahaasu Devta was called upon by
the people from his seat in Kashmir to settle score with the demons and evil
intensions that haunted them. The major temples of Mahaasu Devta are at Hanol
near Mori, Biroud near Nainbaag and Lakhwaar near Mussoorie. An enormous
procession is held each year during September as thanks giving to the lord who
devastated the evil and brought a fair deal.
FAIR GAMES
Jaunpur-Jaunsaar-Rawaeen-Bhaabur is the land of fairs and festivals the colors
and joviality of which keeps embracing the calm of the mountains all the year
round.
ROJ ROJ MAROJ:
Maagh ka Mela or Maroj knocks the door during the whole month of January when
the crisp winter Sun brings along the much needed warmth after the long chilly
nights. The tired terraced fields go for a prolonged sleep under the thick
blanket of soft snow. There is no work to do and the spirits are high. At dawn,
the smoke coming out of the kitchen chimneys through granite slab roofs of
wooden houses gel together with the morning vapors to ward off silence from the
valleys. And it really works as the menu of the day remains mutton, mutton and
mutton be it chili salt roasted with boiled sweet potatoes, pan fried with
choice of green or red chutney or the Pahaari way flavored curry. Even the
infants with no teeth are made to taste some. No work means no work which saves
time for the major work for the preparation of excellent homemade herbs and
grains wine. Within no time, the Sun gladly becomes the focus light and gaiety
enthralls. Eating, drinking and social visits brings the Sun for a rest and
huge bonfires lay the carpet for the virgin evening. The voice of the dusk
echoes with sounds of laughter, whistling and distant efforts of heaving while
the baajgi basks his drum skin beside fire. Raasu, Tandi and Pandava dance
revolves around the fire and the evening matures into a satisfied night.
DUBDEE, THE FIRST FEED:
Dubdee, which is probably taken from the word Dub ( a grass), is a harvest
celebration in which a bunch of the first ready crops of the season is
worshipped by the womenfolk and plundered later by the men folk amidst continuous
vigorous drum beats. Both men and women dance throughout the night later.
Dubdee is a phenomenal procession in which a bunch of different crops, which
grow in the region, is erected in a small field. Around 9 O'clock in the night,
excitement takes over the sounds of the cicada and the crickets as people start
gathering at the field after hearing a typical drum beat. The village informer
or announcer called 'Pari' then shouts in a typical rhythmic tone- "Gaon
ki Rehne… Dubdee pujene aijaao…" meaning come on all the Rehne or
daughter-in-law to worship Dubdee. The Rehne start gathering in all their
finery. Only the Rehne or daughter-in-law of the village worship Dubdee. The
Dhyaane or the daughters of the village join later in singing and dancing.
According to the belief, Dubdee is also seen as a Dhyaane or daughter of the
village who was prohibited by her in-laws to go to her village to witness
Dubdee, the first festival of the year. She later died. The curse of a Dhyaane
can be devastating, commit any sin but never upset a Dhyaane believe the people
of the region. In order to pacify her curse, the village Rehne worship that
Dhyaane in the form of that bunch of crops singing the Dhyaane's last song-
"Pehl ki Dubdee re tewaaraa, me bhai me to jaano desa" meaning the
first festival Dubdee has come, I want to go to my village for the same. The
men folk, who stand aside, sing in harmony-" Pehl ki Dubdee re tewaaraa,
toun bhai jaane bhi ne dendaa" meaning, be it the first festival Dubdee,
we are not letting you go. Women folk keeps fast that day, they only eat after
the poojaa is done. They offer Pinoa, a mixture of different floor primarily
Jhangora, to Dubdee. Pinoa is dipped in pure ghee and is eaten as Prashaad.
Cooked rice and milk is also offered. Men folk wait anxiously to exploit the
Dubdee once the women are through with poojaa while the Baajgee (the drummers)
warm their drums beside fire, getting ready to throw energy through their
beats. Soon after singing their last words, the women folk run off and the men
folk attack Dubdee and with in no time, the bunch is reduced to the ground.
Then goes the singing and dancing session from the field to the village Pandaal
where all the villagers and guests participate. The whole village echoes with
the sounds of joy overlooked by the pacified soul of the ever blessing Dhyaane.
MAHAASU JAAGDAA- THE ENLIGHTENING AWAKENING:
Every year on the Ganesh Chaturthi people from nearby villages and far gather
for an enchanting night awakening locally known as "Jaagdaa" in praise
of the great Mahaasu Devtaa at the temples of Lakhwaar in the Dehradun district
and at Biroud in the adjoining Tehri Garhwal district. Mahaasu Devtaa,
according to one belief, is one incarnations of "Mahaa Shiv" who
along with his allies Raghunaath, Chaaldaa and Bothaa had come long time back
in the Jaunpur-Jaunsaar region to get people rid off a demon named Kans. It is
one belief that the demon named Kans had sealed the breasts of womenfolk of the
region with metal locks in order to prevent any infant from feeding resulting
in the infant's death. An episode in the Krishna Puraan supports this belief
that Kans had a threat of life from the 8th kid of Devki, Kans's sister. This
whole chaos could have been an attempt by Kans to make survival impossible for
all the young ones in his region and in the neighboring provinces. The people
of the region, when had enough of Kans's torture, called Mahaasu Devtaa from
the highlands of Kashmir. Mahaasu Devtaa is one such deity of fury and anger
that Kans couldn't continue his evil practices and never returned to the
region. Ever since then, Mahaasu Devtaa has His seats or temples, at Hanol in
the Tons river valley and at Lakhwaar and Biroud villages along with other
villages in either sides of Yamuna river. Chaaldaa Devtaa, as His name
suggests, is ever moving and never sits in one place for long. The grandeur of
the majestic ancient images of the great lord is visible for people only once a
year for two days and a night in between on Ganesh Chaturthi when people spend
the days and night singing and dancing in trance with the Devtaa's Paalki. The
Pandavas also dance in praise of the lord using the believer's bodies. Huge
goats are offered to the lord not to be slaughtered but to be left in the wild
later which remain unharmed by humans or the wild beasts. This mesmerizing
procession keeps going on till 4 O'clock in the morning after which the Devtaa
bathes in closed doors all by Himself unattended even by the temple priests.
The next day, what flour is thrown in the air by the temple priest and later by
the mob and who so ever comes under the shower of the flour is bound to visit
the Jaagda each year.
THE BELATED DIWALI:
People of the region celebrate Diwali, what they call Bagwaali, precisely one
month after the Diwali that rest of India celebrates. They have their own
peculiar customs which are cherished during the festival. An interesting story
leads to the logic behind such a delay. According to the local belief, which
has traveled through words of mouth, once a fierce battle ensued between the
Raja of Kumoun and the Raja of Tehri. The Kumouni fighters, who were famous for
their warfare, were in large number and were equipped with latest weapons. The
Tehri Raja, on the other hand, was sharp in brains. He knew about his people in
Jaunpur-Jaunsaar as most of the area falls in Tehri. There used to be 'Nau Gaja
Bhad' (nine feet tall men) in some of the villages of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar. The
Tehri Raja took along 'Bhad' from each of these villages to fight against the
Kumouni army. Diwali was few days away and the 'Bhad' had gone out to fight
against a violent army so the villager with little hope didn't celebrate
Diwali. However the Tehri army won the battle and the 'Bhad' returned home a month
after Diwali. Celebration was bound to take place to welcome the victorious
'Bhad' and to resume the paused Diwali. Ever since then, the people of
Jaunpur-Jaunsaar follow the same regime. The Jaunpur-Jaunsaar Diwali embarks
celebrations with a different kind of firework. On the first day womenfolk,
while singing folk songs grind Jhangora and Kouni (types of rice) to prepare
delicious cookies called 'Askey' after which the first day is known as. The
night is spending munching, drinking Soor (homemade ale brewed with herbs and
grains) and dancing. Notably, Pandava dance is the pride of the region. Next
day is known as Pakodya as pakoda of various pulses are cooked, all the while
munching, singing and dancing continues. The third day which falls on Amaavas Sankrant
is known as Baraaj on which people spent the whole night making long ropes of
Babaeen (kind of hay) to play Bhaand (tug of war) the next day, Huge sacks of
dry weeds and crop leftovers, known as Dhimsiya, are first worshipped and then
set to fire which sources fire to individual torches made out of Bhimal twigs.
These torches are called Holday which people juggle around with in the fields.
During the earlier days humans used to slide down a long rope from a hill top
to the valley below carrying Holday in hands, thankfully the suicidal
performance is now replaced by a human effigy. Forth day is the much awaited
day of playing Bhaand (tug of war). The rope is considered as Naag Devta who is
the prime deity of the region and hence it is made to purify in the village
stream. Then follows a hilarious tug of war between men and womenfolk in which
most of the time the womenfolk win. After the decisive game is over the rope is
covered with a huge metal cover and is guarded the whole night or else it (the
Devta) will run to other village, believes the villagers. The festival that
begins late ends late as well. All the while munching, drinking and dancing
continue.
Other fairs which keeps the spirits high throughout the year are Devgati ka
mela (February-March), Bissu ka mela (April), Challi ka mela (3rd May), Asaad
ka mela (July), Saawan ke mela (August) and Bhadraaj ka mela (16-17 August).
THE LEGEND OF THE CHOPPED OFF HEAD
Netwaar in Rawaeen is the widest stretch in the Harkidun valley where the Rupin
and Supin rivers unite to give birth to Tons. The turbulent confluence is
silently overlooked by the ancient temple of Karna which is a fine masterpiece
of Pahaari architecture. The otherwise quiet terraced fields witness aggression
and often get stained with blood during the month of February when hundreds of
men divided into two groups punch, kick and even thrash the opponent with
sticks just to snatch and posses a ball which coins the occasion with the name
Gendwa ka mela. The chaotic game symbolizes an incident of the past where a
head of an individual of a particular group was chopped off by the other. The
kin of the deceased wanted to posses the head which they were denied to and a
scuffle ensued. Although barbaric, the men of the villages participate just for
the fun of it and at the end of the day, there are no hard feelings.
PARTY HARD WORK HARDER
The people of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar are primarily self sufficient farmers and have
enough for a healthy sustainance. The bovine connection with Bhadraaj Devta has
blessed them with immense livestock and milk and milk products. However, in the
olden days, it was only salt for which they used to venture to places like
Vikasnagar and barter salt with pure ghee as they never commercialized milk
owing to the belief that it was the Devta's bliss. Eventually, they began
trading milk products like ghee and curd along with fresh and organic
vegetables that includes beans, cucumber, gourd, bitter gourd, pumpkin, lady
finger, radish, carrot, buck weed, corn, walnut, fern and wild mushroom. The
humble villagers would wake up at 4 in the morning and would walk with their
ponies laden with fresh pick to distant places like Nainbaag, Mussoorie and
Vikasnagar. Gradually, the commercialization got intensified and excellent
yields like Rajma, rice, wheat, potato, pea, culath, jhangora and gainth became
popular all over the neighboring districts. Ponies got to get some rest giving
way to loader jeeps some of which flattens because of overload while the ponies
watch amusingly clapping their long ears and munching gur-chana. The
horticulture of the region is going great guns too and the goods are finding
place in the metros. Some of the private orchards are producing top grade
fruits and by products out of Rhododendron, apple, apricot, plum, kiwi, pear,
peach, mango, strawberry and the wild berries and flowers. Floriculture is also
in full swing and the flowers from the nursery at Bhilaru forest would adorn
the Commonwealth games in New Delhi. The cottage industry incorporating trees
like Gainthi (for utensils and furniture), Bhimal (for toiletries and fiber)
and Himrai (for medicinal use) and the multipurpose Ringaal is one promising
avenue to fetch self employment and big time revenue.
PARADISE REVEALED
Tourism is the latest opportunity to boost the economy in the region. Although
the Yamunotri highway snakes along against the flow of the gorgeous Yamuna, the
Jaunpur-Jaunsaar long remained isolated and unexplored due to same
misconceptions of the past. The course of time has learned a lot from Yamuna
and to date tourism is expanding in the region like her elaborated curves. The
pristine Harkidun meadow in the lap of Swargarohini peak and the Jaundhaar
glacier has emerged as one preferred destination among keen trekkers and
botanists and the more adventurous climb the peak which remained prohibited to
scale owing to religious significances. The skilled ones cross the Bharaasu
pass and the Rupin pass to land into Chitkul in Sangla valley Himachal Pradesh.
The Harkidun meadow is no less than the Valley of Flowers during monsoon.
Considering the habitation of a healthy population of leopards, Himalayan black
bears, antlers, giant squirrels, porcupines and other mammals, reptiles and
birds, a part of the valley has been protected as Govind Wildlife Sanctuary
which is a windfall gain for naturalists and environmentalists. A visit to the
Ruinsara, Judaataal and Saruka lakes is worthwhile. Other destinations of
tourist interests are Mahaasu temples at Hanol and Lakhwaar, the fruit orchards
at Tiuni and Arakot, camping and rafting in Tons near Mori, the pine forest at
Jarmola, the wide fields at Purola, the ASI Shiva temple at Lakhamandal,
camping, rafting and angling in Yamuna, trekking to the tops of Naag Tibba and
Naag Thaat, the tranquility at Chakrata and Kanasar with Tiger falls (one of
the highest waterfalls in the country), ASI site Ashokan rock edict at Kalsi,
Benog Mountain Quail Bird Sanctuary at Mussoorie, souvenir shopping at Purola,
Nowgaon, Tiuni, Nainbaag, Vikasnagar, Kalsi and Mussoorie. There are GMVN guest
houses and Forest Rest Houses all through the trails. There are neat, clean and
reasonable private lodges also. In any case, food and shelter is not a
constraint in Jaunpru-Jaunsaar because the hisssstory of the Naagraaj and the fierce
judgment of Mahaasu Devta has kept the people humble and bowed. That is why
there is no place like Jaunpur-Jaunsaar and that is why the Yamuna flows.
