THE MYSTIC OF JAUNPUR-JAUNSAAR

The great penance of Yamuna shaped Jaunpur-Jaunsaar with her sweat giving the region a meaning. The awe inspiring beauty of the land compelled Kauravas and the Pandavas to make it a sojourn and eventually the seed of a unique lineage was sown. The ball game of Gendwa still beckons the memories of chopping off a head in the ancient times. And the tales are still narrated at nights by wrinkled faced elders gurgling hukka beside the cozy fire of the chulha inside the pine fragrant and homemade wine scented wooden houses.

The mystic Jaunpur-Jaunsaar with its allies Rawaeen and Bhaabur collectively form a hidden buffer zone between the trio district of Tehri Garhwal, Dehradun and Uttarkashi with Sirmour district of Himachal Pradesh as the northern frontier. The Queen of the Hills Musoorie, Vikasnagar and Hatkoti in Himachal Pradesh are the three entry points to the region the scenic beauty and rich culture of which is certainly exclusive in the entire mountains. Primarily a tribal habitation, the region is home to the Brahmins, Rajputs and the collective clans of craftsmen, artisans and musicians all living together in remote areas of either side of Yamuna river which coins the name Jaunpur-Jaunsaar. The other river divide is that of the Tons river in Rawaeen which is one of the wildest rivers in Asia and is a major tributary of Yamuna uniting at Kalsi. It is Yamuna who cushions the turbulent Tons in her tolerant domain as she is the outcome of age's old patience.

THE ESSENCE OF ORIGIN
According to the local legends, Surya Dev married Sangya who couldn't stand the heat of the Sun god during intimacy and hence created her clone Chhaaya for the purpose without the consent of her consort. In course of time Chhaaya gave birth to Yama, the god of death, and Yamuna. Once while playing, Yama accidentally kicked Sangya who got annoyed to the extent that she cursed Yama of a rotten leg. Yamuna, who loved her brother dearly, went to the harshest region (the present Yamunotri site) to undergo age's long penance which ultimately got Yama out of the curse. Yama blessed his sister with the boon to continue flourishing lives and that a dip in her water would save from akaalmrityu or untimely death. Bhaiyya Dooj is celebrated hence. Jaunpur and Jaunsaar are two fertile zones on either side of Yamuna and the elders assert that Jaunpur-Jaunsaar literally means Jamuna Paar and Jamuna Saar respectively. Life begins and ends in Yamuna for the people of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar as for them it is not just a river, it is a heavenly bliss.

THE HISSSSTORY OF THE BELIEF
The serpent god is the prime deity of the region who is worshipped as both Naagraaj and as Bhadraaj or Balram, the elder brother of Lord Krishna. On of the major temples of Naagraaj is located at Kyaarkuli village on the Dehradun-Mussoorie highway and that of Bhadraaj Devta is situated on a mountain top near Mussoorie. The other ancient temples of Naagraaj are located at Naag Tibba, Naagthaat, Devalsari and the one at Untar village is one fine piece of architecture. However, the customs and rituals clearly indicates the influence of the Pandavas in the region and practices like polyandry is still in vogue in the remote areas. The ASI protected Shiva temple at Lakhamandal in Jaunsaar is believed to have been built by the Pandavas and the area is often linked by some with the Laakshagriha conspiracy. Hundreds and hundreds of stone Shivalinga are still being unearthed from around the temple and village which supports the Puranic belief that the Pandavas built one Lakh Shivalinga to get out of the curse of Guru Hatya during the great war of Mahabharata. Later, the five brothers with their consort Draupadi moved towards the Swargarohini peak which dominates the Harkidun meadow in Rawaeen. On the other hand, the Harkidun valley is believed to be the domain of Duryodhana and Karna who spent a considerable span of time around the valley. The Someshwar temples at Mori, Netwaar, Saur, Osla, Dhaatmeer, Jakhol and the villages apart the Karmanaasha and Supin rivers were built by Duryodhana and Karna as indicates the temple plaques. Some elders believe that it is Duryodhana and Karna who were worshipped as gods.

The other prime deity of this divine land is Mahaasu Devta, a manifestation of Lord Shiva, who is one furious god of justice. Mahaasu Devta was called upon by the people from his seat in Kashmir to settle score with the demons and evil intensions that haunted them. The major temples of Mahaasu Devta are at Hanol near Mori, Biroud near Nainbaag and Lakhwaar near Mussoorie. An enormous procession is held each year during September as thanks giving to the lord who devastated the evil and brought a fair deal.

FAIR GAMES
Jaunpur-Jaunsaar-Rawaeen-Bhaabur is the land of fairs and festivals the colors and joviality of which keeps embracing the calm of the mountains all the year round.
ROJ ROJ MAROJ:
Maagh ka Mela or Maroj knocks the door during the whole month of January when the crisp winter Sun brings along the much needed warmth after the long chilly nights. The tired terraced fields go for a prolonged sleep under the thick blanket of soft snow. There is no work to do and the spirits are high. At dawn, the smoke coming out of the kitchen chimneys through granite slab roofs of wooden houses gel together with the morning vapors to ward off silence from the valleys. And it really works as the menu of the day remains mutton, mutton and mutton be it chili salt roasted with boiled sweet potatoes, pan fried with choice of green or red chutney or the Pahaari way flavored curry. Even the infants with no teeth are made to taste some. No work means no work which saves time for the major work for the preparation of excellent homemade herbs and grains wine. Within no time, the Sun gladly becomes the focus light and gaiety enthralls. Eating, drinking and social visits brings the Sun for a rest and huge bonfires lay the carpet for the virgin evening. The voice of the dusk echoes with sounds of laughter, whistling and distant efforts of heaving while the baajgi basks his drum skin beside fire. Raasu, Tandi and Pandava dance revolves around the fire and the evening matures into a satisfied night.

DUBDEE, THE FIRST FEED:
Dubdee, which is probably taken from the word Dub ( a grass), is a harvest celebration in which a bunch of the first ready crops of the season is worshipped by the womenfolk and plundered later by the men folk amidst continuous vigorous drum beats. Both men and women dance throughout the night later. Dubdee is a phenomenal procession in which a bunch of different crops, which grow in the region, is erected in a small field. Around 9 O'clock in the night, excitement takes over the sounds of the cicada and the crickets as people start gathering at the field after hearing a typical drum beat. The village informer or announcer called 'Pari' then shouts in a typical rhythmic tone- "Gaon ki Rehne… Dubdee pujene aijaao…" meaning come on all the Rehne or daughter-in-law to worship Dubdee. The Rehne start gathering in all their finery. Only the Rehne or daughter-in-law of the village worship Dubdee. The Dhyaane or the daughters of the village join later in singing and dancing. According to the belief, Dubdee is also seen as a Dhyaane or daughter of the village who was prohibited by her in-laws to go to her village to witness Dubdee, the first festival of the year. She later died. The curse of a Dhyaane can be devastating, commit any sin but never upset a Dhyaane believe the people of the region. In order to pacify her curse, the village Rehne worship that Dhyaane in the form of that bunch of crops singing the Dhyaane's last song- "Pehl ki Dubdee re tewaaraa, me bhai me to jaano desa" meaning the first festival Dubdee has come, I want to go to my village for the same. The men folk, who stand aside, sing in harmony-" Pehl ki Dubdee re tewaaraa, toun bhai jaane bhi ne dendaa" meaning, be it the first festival Dubdee, we are not letting you go. Women folk keeps fast that day, they only eat after the poojaa is done. They offer Pinoa, a mixture of different floor primarily Jhangora, to Dubdee. Pinoa is dipped in pure ghee and is eaten as Prashaad. Cooked rice and milk is also offered. Men folk wait anxiously to exploit the Dubdee once the women are through with poojaa while the Baajgee (the drummers) warm their drums beside fire, getting ready to throw energy through their beats. Soon after singing their last words, the women folk run off and the men folk attack Dubdee and with in no time, the bunch is reduced to the ground. Then goes the singing and dancing session from the field to the village Pandaal where all the villagers and guests participate. The whole village echoes with the sounds of joy overlooked by the pacified soul of the ever blessing Dhyaane.

MAHAASU JAAGDAA- THE ENLIGHTENING AWAKENING:
Every year on the Ganesh Chaturthi people from nearby villages and far gather for an enchanting night awakening locally known as "Jaagdaa" in praise of the great Mahaasu Devtaa at the temples of Lakhwaar in the Dehradun district and at Biroud in the adjoining Tehri Garhwal district. Mahaasu Devtaa, according to one belief, is one incarnations of "Mahaa Shiv" who along with his allies Raghunaath, Chaaldaa and Bothaa had come long time back in the Jaunpur-Jaunsaar region to get people rid off a demon named Kans. It is one belief that the demon named Kans had sealed the breasts of womenfolk of the region with metal locks in order to prevent any infant from feeding resulting in the infant's death. An episode in the Krishna Puraan supports this belief that Kans had a threat of life from the 8th kid of Devki, Kans's sister. This whole chaos could have been an attempt by Kans to make survival impossible for all the young ones in his region and in the neighboring provinces. The people of the region, when had enough of Kans's torture, called Mahaasu Devtaa from the highlands of Kashmir. Mahaasu Devtaa is one such deity of fury and anger that Kans couldn't continue his evil practices and never returned to the region. Ever since then, Mahaasu Devtaa has His seats or temples, at Hanol in the Tons river valley and at Lakhwaar and Biroud villages along with other villages in either sides of Yamuna river. Chaaldaa Devtaa, as His name suggests, is ever moving and never sits in one place for long. The grandeur of the majestic ancient images of the great lord is visible for people only once a year for two days and a night in between on Ganesh Chaturthi when people spend the days and night singing and dancing in trance with the Devtaa's Paalki. The Pandavas also dance in praise of the lord using the believer's bodies. Huge goats are offered to the lord not to be slaughtered but to be left in the wild later which remain unharmed by humans or the wild beasts. This mesmerizing procession keeps going on till 4 O'clock in the morning after which the Devtaa bathes in closed doors all by Himself unattended even by the temple priests. The next day, what flour is thrown in the air by the temple priest and later by the mob and who so ever comes under the shower of the flour is bound to visit the Jaagda each year.

THE BELATED DIWALI: People of the region celebrate Diwali, what they call Bagwaali, precisely one month after the Diwali that rest of India celebrates. They have their own peculiar customs which are cherished during the festival. An interesting story leads to the logic behind such a delay. According to the local belief, which has traveled through words of mouth, once a fierce battle ensued between the Raja of Kumoun and the Raja of Tehri. The Kumouni fighters, who were famous for their warfare, were in large number and were equipped with latest weapons. The Tehri Raja, on the other hand, was sharp in brains. He knew about his people in Jaunpur-Jaunsaar as most of the area falls in Tehri. There used to be 'Nau Gaja Bhad' (nine feet tall men) in some of the villages of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar. The Tehri Raja took along 'Bhad' from each of these villages to fight against the Kumouni army. Diwali was few days away and the 'Bhad' had gone out to fight against a violent army so the villager with little hope didn't celebrate Diwali. However the Tehri army won the battle and the 'Bhad' returned home a month after Diwali. Celebration was bound to take place to welcome the victorious 'Bhad' and to resume the paused Diwali. Ever since then, the people of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar follow the same regime. The Jaunpur-Jaunsaar Diwali embarks celebrations with a different kind of firework. On the first day womenfolk, while singing folk songs grind Jhangora and Kouni (types of rice) to prepare delicious cookies called 'Askey' after which the first day is known as. The night is spending munching, drinking Soor (homemade ale brewed with herbs and grains) and dancing. Notably, Pandava dance is the pride of the region. Next day is known as Pakodya as pakoda of various pulses are cooked, all the while munching, singing and dancing continues. The third day which falls on Amaavas Sankrant is known as Baraaj on which people spent the whole night making long ropes of Babaeen (kind of hay) to play Bhaand (tug of war) the next day, Huge sacks of dry weeds and crop leftovers, known as Dhimsiya, are first worshipped and then set to fire which sources fire to individual torches made out of Bhimal twigs. These torches are called Holday which people juggle around with in the fields. During the earlier days humans used to slide down a long rope from a hill top to the valley below carrying Holday in hands, thankfully the suicidal performance is now replaced by a human effigy. Forth day is the much awaited day of playing Bhaand (tug of war). The rope is considered as Naag Devta who is the prime deity of the region and hence it is made to purify in the village stream. Then follows a hilarious tug of war between men and womenfolk in which most of the time the womenfolk win. After the decisive game is over the rope is covered with a huge metal cover and is guarded the whole night or else it (the Devta) will run to other village, believes the villagers. The festival that begins late ends late as well. All the while munching, drinking and dancing continue.
Other fairs which keeps the spirits high throughout the year are Devgati ka mela (February-March), Bissu ka mela (April), Challi ka mela (3rd May), Asaad ka mela (July), Saawan ke mela (August) and Bhadraaj ka mela (16-17 August).

THE LEGEND OF THE CHOPPED OFF HEAD Netwaar in Rawaeen is the widest stretch in the Harkidun valley where the Rupin and Supin rivers unite to give birth to Tons. The turbulent confluence is silently overlooked by the ancient temple of Karna which is a fine masterpiece of Pahaari architecture. The otherwise quiet terraced fields witness aggression and often get stained with blood during the month of February when hundreds of men divided into two groups punch, kick and even thrash the opponent with sticks just to snatch and posses a ball which coins the occasion with the name Gendwa ka mela. The chaotic game symbolizes an incident of the past where a head of an individual of a particular group was chopped off by the other. The kin of the deceased wanted to posses the head which they were denied to and a scuffle ensued. Although barbaric, the men of the villages participate just for the fun of it and at the end of the day, there are no hard feelings.

PARTY HARD WORK HARDER
The people of Jaunpur-Jaunsaar are primarily self sufficient farmers and have enough for a healthy sustainance. The bovine connection with Bhadraaj Devta has blessed them with immense livestock and milk and milk products. However, in the olden days, it was only salt for which they used to venture to places like Vikasnagar and barter salt with pure ghee as they never commercialized milk owing to the belief that it was the Devta's bliss. Eventually, they began trading milk products like ghee and curd along with fresh and organic vegetables that includes beans, cucumber, gourd, bitter gourd, pumpkin, lady finger, radish, carrot, buck weed, corn, walnut, fern and wild mushroom. The humble villagers would wake up at 4 in the morning and would walk with their ponies laden with fresh pick to distant places like Nainbaag, Mussoorie and Vikasnagar. Gradually, the commercialization got intensified and excellent yields like Rajma, rice, wheat, potato, pea, culath, jhangora and gainth became popular all over the neighboring districts. Ponies got to get some rest giving way to loader jeeps some of which flattens because of overload while the ponies watch amusingly clapping their long ears and munching gur-chana. The horticulture of the region is going great guns too and the goods are finding place in the metros. Some of the private orchards are producing top grade fruits and by products out of Rhododendron, apple, apricot, plum, kiwi, pear, peach, mango, strawberry and the wild berries and flowers. Floriculture is also in full swing and the flowers from the nursery at Bhilaru forest would adorn the Commonwealth games in New Delhi. The cottage industry incorporating trees like Gainthi (for utensils and furniture), Bhimal (for toiletries and fiber) and Himrai (for medicinal use) and the multipurpose Ringaal is one promising avenue to fetch self employment and big time revenue.

PARADISE REVEALED

Tourism is the latest opportunity to boost the economy in the region. Although the Yamunotri highway snakes along against the flow of the gorgeous Yamuna, the Jaunpur-Jaunsaar long remained isolated and unexplored due to same misconceptions of the past. The course of time has learned a lot from Yamuna and to date tourism is expanding in the region like her elaborated curves. The pristine Harkidun meadow in the lap of Swargarohini peak and the Jaundhaar glacier has emerged as one preferred destination among keen trekkers and botanists and the more adventurous climb the peak which remained prohibited to scale owing to religious significances. The skilled ones cross the Bharaasu pass and the Rupin pass to land into Chitkul in Sangla valley Himachal Pradesh. The Harkidun meadow is no less than the Valley of Flowers during monsoon. Considering the habitation of a healthy population of leopards, Himalayan black bears, antlers, giant squirrels, porcupines and other mammals, reptiles and birds, a part of the valley has been protected as Govind Wildlife Sanctuary which is a windfall gain for naturalists and environmentalists. A visit to the Ruinsara, Judaataal and Saruka lakes is worthwhile. Other destinations of tourist interests are Mahaasu temples at Hanol and Lakhwaar, the fruit orchards at Tiuni and Arakot, camping and rafting in Tons near Mori, the pine forest at Jarmola, the wide fields at Purola, the ASI Shiva temple at Lakhamandal, camping, rafting and angling in Yamuna, trekking to the tops of Naag Tibba and Naag Thaat, the tranquility at Chakrata and Kanasar with Tiger falls (one of the highest waterfalls in the country), ASI site Ashokan rock edict at Kalsi, Benog Mountain Quail Bird Sanctuary at Mussoorie, souvenir shopping at Purola, Nowgaon, Tiuni, Nainbaag, Vikasnagar, Kalsi and Mussoorie. There are GMVN guest houses and Forest Rest Houses all through the trails. There are neat, clean and reasonable private lodges also. In any case, food and shelter is not a constraint in Jaunpru-Jaunsaar because the hisssstory of the Naagraaj and the fierce judgment of Mahaasu Devta has kept the people humble and bowed. That is why there is no place like Jaunpur-Jaunsaar and that is why the Yamuna flows.